Oh, the glamorous life of a pattern designer…you would think I would get to sew all day, right? WRONG! There is precious little sewing going on in my studio nowadays. The pattern designing is almost all done on the computer in Adobe Illustrator. And, as I’ve mentioned, I recently got a promotion at my IRL job and that means way more hours at the computer, too. Ugh. I’m trying hard to improve my posture so I don’t go hunchback peering at a computer screen all day for my job, then all night for my passion.
These are the pants of my dreams. Snug but not too tight, interesting but still neutral, and made to fit me! My black jeans were just practice for this aspirational pair that I had in mind since I laid eyes on this JCrew fabric and bought all of it up like a fabric pig. I already made a jacket out of it.
The trickiest part was cutting, you know. There are 3 leg pieces in the Jamie jeans by Named patterns, so a little more of a challenge to keep the pattern lined up horizontally. I succeeded at that (yay!), but matching up all my ikats perfectly across seams was too fussy for me to handle. I deeply admire Lauren’s use of this fabric and her perfect matches on her Moss skirt, though! I cut my yoke crossways so I didn’t have to match it up, and I could make adjustments to it. It also cuts down on the stretch factor on that piece, which keeps it from sliding down, down, down as the day progresses. My waistband is interfaced, too. I don’t want it going anywhere, either!
Part of the reason it took so long to construct these is that I basted everything together to perfect the fit. Yes, I had made these before, but this fabric has a totally different stretch and feel than the denim I used previously. And I wanted these to be just right! So I basted, had to make adjustments to the bum, yoke and thigh (probably should have just made a smaller size) and had to unpick all basting and construct again. I passionately hate to do the same thing over again.
I am proud of my camouflage pockets, though. I carefully cut out the pockets to match the pattern and stuck them on with wonder tape before I sewed them down. They turned out great, just the teensiest bit misaligned with each other. Still, since they are camouflaged, that misalignment is not so glaring unless you take a picture of my bum from 2 feet away (like I asked my husband to do).
My fly insertion went even better this time. Things to remember (recording this more for me, but maybe they will be helpful for you?).
- Sew the inside side of the zipper ¼” away from the seam, remember you want that space.
- Leave room at the bottom below the zipper stop. That is not zippable space anyway and then you won’t lose your zipper in that abyss.
- Finish all your fly edges before you start construction, even before you sew the 2 legs together if you remember.
I am not done with this pattern yet – oh no! I love it! Sure, I dream of drafting the perfect pant pattern. The designer in me wants to do all sorts of things with pants, since I love them and wear them so often. But my next several pattern ideas are still modern, versatile knit tops. Learning pants drafting will have to wait for a bit.