Sleeves are the star of this M7564 blouse

M7564 top modified

The 2nd round of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee called for fabulous sleeves, so I had to answer! It was a great challenge that saw me starting 3 different projects, but I’m glad I finished this one and entered it and I will get back to the other projects once I’ve rested a bit.

I used this beautiful silk-cotton I have been saving for years! I have loved it and vacillated about which project to use it for it seems like dozens of times. I purchased it my first trip to the LA fashion district, and it now occurs to me that I can go get more if I feel I need to.  If not this exact print, this same texture is available at my favorite store up there. But I think it all turned out beautifully and I really will be wearing this top a lot and enjoying this fabric on my actual self! BTW, it is the same type of fabric as my Kanerva blouse of a previous .. Sewing Bee.

Silk cotton blouse with leather

I wrote a very detailed review for the contest, so I’ll copy and paste it here if you didn’t see it over there:

Pattern Description: McCall’s 7564 Very loose fitting, pullover dresses have sleeve, length and hem variations.

Pattern Sizing: XS – XL. I made a medium.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I made many changes, including chopping it off to a top and adding quite a bit of pizzazz to the sleeves. It is a basic raglan sleeve peasant dress pattern with a neckband.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  This was definitely my own creation, and I did not use the instructions.

M7564 blouse sleeve modifiedWhat did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It has a very small neck opening. I had to discard the neckband piece.

Fabric Used: Light but crisp cotton silk. I love this kind of fabric! And I added just a bit of leather!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I first added pintucks to the front and sleeves. As I cut I had to be sure and add width to account for the fabric taken up by the pintucks, but the pattern fit is forgiving, so I did not have to be too exact.

The flouncy sleeve was easily embroidered and pintucked. It moves the eye down to the leather detail and the huge ruffle. I used the leather as a bit of a fluffing tool. The top of the leather strip is attached to the sleeve then topstiched down, but when I attached the doubled over ruffle, I loved how the leather seam allowance assisted the ruffle to keep from collapsing, I wanted more body in the ruffle, so the two layers were the first step, but then the method of attaching to the leather was even more helpful in that regard. It feels so dramatic and full now! Yay!

I planned on a front placket as the pattern shows for the front piece, but my diagonal tucks made that impossible, I needed to keep the front open to show off the tucks, but ended up with a front center seam to straighten things out. Design feature opportunity! I added embroidery to the front to keep my seam allowance down. I ended up loving it so much and was glad to have a tie in with the sleeve detail. I also added a button because I didn’t like it open after all that. But I’m glad I got my pintucks in at least.

M6475 silk cotton topI used almost all french seams, since the fabric is so light and transparent. I did have to serge the ruffle attached to the sleeve, but it does not show through since it joins to the leather there. I used a facing to make my casing for the neckline elastic because I think that lays much nicer and and it gained some stability.

My wash off stabilizer used for the embroidery gave the fabric a rumpled appearance that emphasized the embroidery and pintucks and I’m pleased. Let’s be honest, this blouse is not going to stay wrinkle free, and it shouldn’t have to! I wanted an easy-to-wear blouse that stood out as unique! I think I achieved that and the drama of the sleeves is showstopping!

Conclusion: I feel like I can take flight in my sleeves, and yet this top can go with jeans, shorts, or a dressed up skirt and is not actually fussy. I slipped my signature leather detail in there, but I think it maintains the boho vibe of the top.

McCall's 7564 outfit


Fooling the eye with my Simplicity 1283 skirt

IMG_4531 (2)It is Pattern Review Sewing Bee time once again and I love how this sewing contest always pushes me! This project particularly turned out just as I imagined and I couldn’t be happier. And it was made with a care and level of craftsmanship I don’t always take with a sewing project.

Simplicity 1283 backThe Round 1 challenge was a pencil skirt and immediately I was thrilled. I love pencil skirts and especially with the looser tops I’ve been amassing for my sunny and casual lifestyle, the slim skirt is a perfect pairing. I wore this simple button up blouse to keep the emphasis on the skirt for these pictures, but the subtle pattern and denim back mean this skirt can easily go with a colorful top, too. I can’t wait to try it!

The pattern is Mimi G for Simplicity 1283 and so it features the adorable and curvy Mimi on the cover. I am built nothing like her, so I tried to fool the eye into imagining more curves with my added style line at the high hip. I think it worked pretty well. My waist looks pretty small and there is some definition to my hips that I don’t usually have. It turned out so flattering!

Here are my construction notes from my PR review :

Simplicity 1283 detailThe main alteration for this pattern is I added an angled piece of the stretch denim to the front. It almost looks as though the back is wrapping around the front. This visually brought my waist in to look slimmer and the longer length should make me look taller. That’s the theory anyway!

But the fun comes from the play of stripes on the front and side panels. I emphasized the change in stripe direction with navy blue trim. I was sad to cover my perfect stripe sewing on the seams, but the trim really added to the style!

Simplicity 1283 innardsI used a couple tips from Sandra Betzina’s (old) book More Power Sewing. It warned me to ensure that the garment waist be 1 – 2 inches larger than the cut waistband and to ease that extra fabric in as you sew to create a smooth transition from snug waistband to high hip. I think this worked great and avoided the folding and bunching that can sometimes happen right under the waistband when actually moving around.

The lining is handstitched to the invisible zipper and the tweed hem is also hand stitched with no thread visible. The denim portion of the hem is a nice deep 1 inch machine sewn hem to secure the kick pleat.

Simplicity 1283 sideA very fun project for a very fun contest! I just completed my Round 2 entry, but the blog lags behind when I am sewing this much, so I’ll share that one a little later.


Soft and swingy summer tank M6359

IMG_4408 (2)Hi all! I’ve been neglecting the blog quite a bit. I just don’t know what to talk about here. I feel like I can just say – “here, I made this, look at it” for every post. What is it you readers want to hear? How can I shake this blog up and make it fun again?

McCalls 6359 frontThis time I have a cute tank top (McCall’s 6359) that made out of very soft rayon. Rayon wrinkles like a bitch, as these pictures show, but it is so lovely to wear against the skin during summer. I will usually line a garment made from rayon to keep the wrinkling down a bit, but this soft easy tank wouldn’t have been as fun to wear. I did extend the facing so it covers my bust for a little modesty, quite an easy modification.

mcCalls 6359 bodiceWhat I especially like about the shape of it is the high point where the bodice meets the straps. The top still dips very low in front, but I love the angle that takes it up before it becomes a strap, all the way to my collarbone.

M6359 tankAnd of course I love the cut of the back. I even have a bra that is cut with nearly the same lines! The racer back is gathered and connected to the facing inside, then the straps are slipped in between. It is a clean finish. I am horrible at making strap attachments look tidy.

McCalls 6359 hemI did a tiny baby hem to finish it off. It looks sharp in this photo, but I have since washed this top and the thing raveled out and now looks a mess. Not a durable finish. I’ll go back and serge the edge, then hem it tightly so that the serging stitch doesn’t show. That will be more durable. Add it to the mending pile!

M6359 tunic

 


Named Lourdes Jacket for the Hack It! Challenge

Named Lourdes jacket hackHere is a fun little (by little, I mean very involved) project I put together for The Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern month. I just have to participate every year, it is so fun! I especially appreciated how they moved it to July this time around. June is packed, but in July we have the lazy days of summer upon us and I had time to sew this fun and versatile jacket for the Hack It! contest.

Named Lourdes Jacket with ruffleI love love love Named Patterns. They fit so well, they have wonderful instructions, and the styles are amazing. I actually won the Named Lourdes Jacket from a previous Monthly Stitch IPM contest, so this is such a perfect use! But just because I hacked this pattern does not mean that I do not adore the original design, oh no! I’ll be making a straight version of this jacket, I’m sure.

navy nordstrom jacketBut for this fun version, I was inspired by the Nordstrom sale…I know you all see those posts and flit over to their website, click around and think “Hey, I could make that!” I saw this cute jacket, but if there is one thing I know, it is that I DO NOT NEED another navy jacket. But white would be terrific. I happen to have some beautiful white tweed with silver threads through it waiting for me.

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What I did was utilized the cut made for front darts to insert my ruffle just on the side and back. Then I simply chopped off the sleeves to add a matching ruffle there. The modification became tricky when it got to the lining. I ended up leaving the lining free at the bottom and hemming my tweed normally. It would have been so cool to bag my lining, but I couldn’t do it this time. I also left off the buttons, as my inspiration jacket didn’t have any.

This pattern is beautiful and goes together very well. It does have a ton of steps and it took quite a while to even get to the sewing! There is a lot of interfacing (especially important with my ravelly tweed!) and they want you to finish many of your seams before you start. It is like they knew I was making it out of this difficult fabric, because those important steps were so necessary for my project and turned it into a really nicely finished product.

IMG_4467 (2)Some notes about the pattern – it is short! Very cropped. I even added length and you can see how cropped it still is with me wearing high waist jeans. The shoulders are also a little narrow. There is a very cool sleeve detail I had to leave off because of my ruffle but can’t wait to try on my next version. I do highly recommend this pattern and I love the finished product. It will be so handy to have a stylish white jacket, as soon as the temperature drops just a little!


M7577 Heathered Wrap Jumpsuit

M7577 jumpsuit bodiceI really like this pattern, McCall’s 7577. My version is pretty plain at first glance, but then, party in the back! I like the unexpected twist on a basic, comfy jumpsuit.

M7577 back yokeThis fabric is a lightweight but substantial knit with a lovely brushed hand and good recovery. So many of the fabrics I find are mysteries, and this one said nothing on the bolt but was obviously better quality than the other fabrics in this tiny shop I discovered. It drapes nicely but doesn’t cling.

McCall's 7577 jumpsuitUsually when I make a garment in a knit out of a pattern drafted for wovens, I do go down a size. I already went down a size because this is a McCall’s pattern anyway. I chose not to go down another because I didn’t want this knit clinging to my backside and I am treating this as a comepletely wearable muslin. I would like to make one of the more flirtyy romper views in a rayon. I just about died over Thimberlina’s version. It has birds!

McCall's jumpsuit 7577 frontI pretty quickly veered off the pattern directions after I assembled the back yoke and front pieces. The front edge is a bias cut, and as such is very vulnerable. On my knit I knew I needed to deal with that or the front would gape open and basically, the whole thing would be a disater and not wearable. Since you must shimmy in and out of that top by opening and putting pressure on that front edge, I decided to reinforce it with fold-over elastic.

McCalls jumpuit patternWith the fold over elastic, I was able to draw up the front a little bit by stretching my elastic as I sewed it. So my front edges actually tuck in towards my chest and it keeps everything much more secure. The elastic also helps with recovery after I stretch the front open to go to the bathroom multiple times a day.

M7577 back viewThe rest of the construction is not noteworthy. I used a double needle to finish my armholes, and there was a bit of tunneling. Sad, but I needed the armholes to retain some stretch. The hem I just used a straight sstitch. The waistband is constructed by using the seam allowance of the waist seam folded up as a casing. I was not looking at the instructions anymore by that point, please note.

McCall's 7577I did add to the length of the bodice to ensure it would blouse nicely over the waistband. The hem length was totally invented, too. I wanted a shorter jumpsuit so it would be nice and casual. I may cut it off further…I can’t decide. Hem lengths have been all over the place in fashion right now and I know that affords me a lot of freedom to choose what looks best on me, but what DOES look best on me? I have the hardest time determining that. I just can’t look at my own image objectively. Suggestions welcome on this subject!

Episode10MichelleWe do have another exciting Clothes Making Mavens podcast episode up! I am so jealous that Lori got to interview Michelle of ThatBlackChic.com, but since she recorded it we all get to enjoy it. I really love how Michelle explains her outlook on fashion as art. I am always torn when faced with that question. I want to push the envelope, but am I comfortable wearing the more artsy ideas I come up with? Lately I’ve been buying much more subdued fabrics and it makes them a bit less inspiring, actually. And if you want to be inspired, listen to Michelle and check out her beautiful creations! She’s amazing, no lie.

 


Warm and Snuggly in my COPPÉLIA Cardi

Coppelia cardiganRecently I purchased a pair of high-waisted jeans. Oh how I love that they suck my tummy in and I don’t have to continuously hike them up! I have been loving them so much I thought it would be great to have more tops to wear with them. The Papercut Coppelia Cardigan has been on my to-sew list for quite a while, and I decided now is the time. This silhouette is so flattering! Continue reading


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A serious black Anza jumpsuit

I’m a jumpsuit convert at this point. I feel so put together in this outfit. And with the addition of gold buttons I feel like it is accessorized already, too. It doesn’t get easier than that in the morning!Itch to Stitch jumpsuit

I don’t do many pattern tests, but when I saw this request from Kennis I really wanted to try it. The Itch to Stitch Anza Jumpsuit is such a unique pattern and has so many great details. I love the gusseted pockets and will use that pocket pattern piece again on other projects. It is very cleverly finished with a lining and really came out well. I also like the rounded V neckline. If I made it again I would make the V a little deeper on me, but I really love the shape of the facing and how it is stitched down to create a lovely detail.

The sleeves are cut onto the bodice with cuffs added. No setting in sleeves and it has a nice shape. The bodice fit is easy and Kennis includes cup sizes so I didn’t even bother making a muslin. Continue reading


Had to try the Off-the-Shoulder trend

SImplicity4177OfftheShoulderAnd I decided I like it! This is an easy fitting top that I actually feel pretty comfortable in. This knit is so soft and hangs well in this style. And I love bright pink tops. That accent color is definitely in my color palette.

S4177ElasticOfftheShoulderBefore the end of the year I bought The Curated Closet and devoured it. It makes so much sense to work out a plan so you feel great in every outfit in your closet. And on my recent trip to the LA fashion district for fabric procurement it really kept me focused on the fabrics and colors I want to wear. Except for one piece of rather expensive peach/gold linen I bought. Not sure what came over me there! Sometimes that happens to me in fabric heaven. I am getting better, though.

Anthropologie dressing roomSince I wasn’t sure about this trend I had not purchased an actual pattern specifically in this style. I tried on this top in Anthropologie and knew I liked the idea of it, but wanted to make it myself. You can see how transparent it is, and yet what can you wear under an off-the-shoulder top for modesty?

S4177modificationsSo I took a very simple peasant top pattern with raglan sleeves (Simplicity 4177 OOP), straightened off the top and folded it over for a casing and inserted elastic. You can see I didn’t cut down the neckline much because I knew I would be folding it over an inch and a half for my casing.

S4177SleeveDetailI love 3/4 sleeves, so I shortened those and made a mini casing for some comfortable elastic there. A very simple alteration that made the top feel customized.  Long sleeves are silly here, and I knew I wanted to wear this if I could during summer. This week it reached 90 degrees, but I know the entire summer won’t be that oppressive and I’ll get to wear it. It would even look cute with shorts.

SimplicityOffshoulderblouse1Now that I decided I like this trend, I went ahead and purchased Cynthia Rowley Simplicity 8124. I don’t know how necessary that pattern is, but I pretty much buy every Cynthia Rowley pattern and I do love the little romper. And I just noticed that the sample dress on the pattern is 3/4 sleeves! Cynthia and I, we think alike!

S4177BlouseMy one regret is my obvious and distracting tank top tan lines. Ugh. Since taking these photos I’ve remembered to apply sunscreen all over my shoulders before I go running. You would laugh harder if you saw my legs! A harsh shorts line mid-thigh and a less defined but still discernible one at my ankle.

And there is my handsome and helpful photographer reflected in the window. It is fun to have him in a shot with me! Where’s Waldo (I mean, Reid)?